Mario Batali: The Italian Kitchen

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Onion Soup Emilia-Romagna Style

Cipollata

This rich dish, almost more stew than soup, makes for a restorative lunch on a chilly autumn day. Italians use cipollotte, red onions, with the green stalks still fresh and soft, which add a fragrant bite. If you can find them at the farmers market in the fall, you should use them too. The eggs stirred in at the end reflect the Emilian love of rich, farm-fresh intensity; you can omit them if you want and just add the cheese for a lighter version.

Ingredients
  • 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 5 tablespoons lard or fatback
  • 12 red or white bulb onions, halved and sliced into thin half-moons
  • ¼ cup all-purpose flour
  • ½ cup dry white wine
  • ½ cup milk
  • 6 cups Chicken Stock (page 125)
  • 3 large eggs
  • ¼ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 6 slices Tuscan or other country bread
  • ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Preparations
  • 1. In a large heavy-bottomed pot, melt the butter and lard over low heat. Add the onions and cook slowly for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally and allowing them to develop a rich brown color.
  • 2. Add the flour and stir until smooth and lump-free. Cook for 15 minutes, stirring frequently. Gradually add the wine, milk, and stock, stirring gently but constantly. Increase the heat slightly, cover, and cook for 30 minutes at a brisk simmer.
  • 3. Preheat the grill or broiler.
  • 4. Bring the soup to a boil and remove from the heat. Whisk the eggs and Parmigiano together and stir into the soup. Replace the lid and allow to stand off the heat for 5 minutes, then season to taste with salt and pepper.
  • 5. Meanwhile, grill the bread or toast under the broiler. Drizzle with the olive oil and place 1 toast in each warmed soup bowl.
  • 6. Ladle the soup into the bowls, and serve.

Makes 6 servings

Chicken Stock

Ingredients
  • 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • Bones, wings, and scraps from 3 whole chickens, excess fat removed
  • 3 carrots, coarsely chopped
  • 2 onions, coarsely chopped
  • 4 ribs celery, coarsely chopped
  • 4 quarts water
  • 2 tablespoons tomato paste
  • 1 tablespoon black peppercorns
  • 1 bunch parsley stems
Preparations

  • 1. In a large heavy-bottomed pot, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat until smoking. Add the chicken parts and brown all over, turning frequently. Transfer the chicken parts to a platter and reserve.

  • 2. Add the carrots, onions, and celery and cook until softened and browned, about 10 minutes. Return the chicken to the pot and add the water, tomato paste, peppercorns, and parsley, and stir to dislodge the browned bits from the bottom of the pot. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and cook at a low simmer for 2 hours, or until reduced by half, occasionally skimming the fat.
  • 3. Remove from the heat and strain into a large bowl, pressing on the solids with the bottom of a ladle to extract all the liquid. Let cool, stirring occasionally. Cover and refrigerate.

Makes about 8 cups

© 2005 Mario Batali from Molto Italiano
Photograph © Beatriz Da Costa